**please note that the information provided
below is specific to Ohio (zone 5)
*WARNING: Before applying any pesticides, please read our
Bee Wise article
See our Frequently Asked Questions below...
- Kills over 100 listed insects including aphids, japanese
beetles, bagworms, leaf miners, scale, thrips, whiteflies, spider
mites, tent caterpillars, mealybugs and much more.
- Use on vegetables, fruits, flowers, roses, ornamentals, lawns,
trees and shrubs.
- Keeps working for up to 4 weeks
- One pint makes up to 16 gallons
- Best sprayed in the late afternoon or evening when the
temperature ranges from 50-75 degrees F and when there is little or
- BEE WISE!
- A ready-to-use dust controlling over 55 listed pests
including aphids, bagworms, japanese beetles, leaf miners, leaf
rollers, mealybugs, scale and whiteflies.
- Kills and repels insects
- Residual control lasts up to 4 weeks
- Use on ornamental plants including vegetables
||Bonide All Seasons Horticultrual &
Dormant Spray Oil
- Kills insects by smothering them. Controls scale,
mealybugs, leaf miners
- For use on fruit trees, shade trees, evergreens, ornamentals,
flowers and houseplants
- Can be used year-round between green tip and delayed dormant
- Do not spray oil again for at least 30 days after first
- Do not spray drought injured or winter burned plants.
- Do not apply oil sprays within 30 days of any sulfur
- Injury may result on the following plants: ferns, palms,
hibiscus, blue spruce, white pine, arborvitae, juniper, japanese
maple, beech, hickory, walnut and butternut.
- 3 products in 1 - fungicide, insecticide & miticide!
- Natural and organic
- For indoor and outdoor use on ornamental flowering
plants, trees, shrubs, foliage plants, vegetables, fruits and nuts.
- Controls fungal diseases such as black spot, mildews,
rusts and scab.
- Kills mites and insects including whiteflies,
aphids and scale.
- Can be used up to day of harvest.
- Derived from the oil of the Neem tree
- Do not apply to wilted or otherwise stressed plants or to newly
transplanted materials prior to root establishment.
- Do not apply to known sensitive plant species such as impatiens,
fuchsia, hibiscus, some roses, ornamental olive trees and some
carnation varieties without prior testing.
- Apply in early morning or late evening only.
||Bonide Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew
- Contains Spinosad (spin-OH-sid), a naturally occuring soil
dwelling bacterium that was collected on a Caribbean island from an
abandoned rum distillery in 1982
- Kills bagworms, borers, beetles, caterpillars, codling moth,
gypsy moth, loopers, leaf miners, spider mites, tent caterpillars,
thrips and more!
||Hi-Yield Dormant Spray
- Controls scale, mites, leaf rollers and whiteflies.
- Good for ornamentals, flowering shrubs, shade and fruit trees.
- Can be used anytime temperature is not over 90 degrees F.
- Mix 3 Tablespoons per gallon
- Do not spray plant in mid-day. Spray in late afternoon or
- Controls scale, thrips, leafhoppers, spider mites,
japanese beetles, moths and other listed sucking and
- One of the few products on the market that controls spider mites
- Also controls mosquitoes and small flying insects.
- For use on trees, shrubs and listed edible plants.
||Espoma Earth-tone 3-n-1 Disease
- Contact Killer for both Insect & Mite Pests
- Controls Black Spot, Powdery Mildew & Rust
- For indoor and outdoor plants.
- Where to use: all indoor and outdoor plants, including roses,
flowers, ornamental trees and shrubs, vegetables, fruits, nuts and
- Thoroughly spray all areas of the plant, especially new shoots
and underside of leaves. Pests need to be contacted by the spray to
- Diseases controlled: Black spot, powdery mildew, rust, scab,
blight, brown rot and leave spot.
- Insects controlled: Aphids, mites, spider mites, leafhoppers,
caterpillars, whiteflies, spittlebugs, mealybugs, scale, thrips,
psyllids, plant bugs, lace bugs, fruit flies and earwigs.
|Bayer's Tree & Shrub Insect Control
- 12 month insect protection. Kills aphids, bronze
birch borer, lacebugs, japanese beetles, leaf hoppers, mealybugs,
thrips, whiteflies, emerald ash borer, leafminers, scales and other
- Can be used on outdoor trees and shrubs including listed fruit
and nut trees (apple, crabapple, oriental pear, pear, pecan and
- Trees: use 1 oz. per inch of distance around trunk; shrubs: 3
oz. per foot of height
- Kills insects and prevents new infestations
- No spraying... just mix and pour at base of plant
- Rainproof protection
- Do not apply near lakes, streams, rivers or ponds
- Do not apply to soils which are water-logged or saturated
- Apply anytime of year but fall is best.
- BEE WISE!
||Bayer Tree & Shrub Protect & Feed
- The newest 12 month formula feeds and protects against insects
in one step. Just sprinkle granules around base of tree and water in
for a full year of protection against devastating pests.
- The insecticide dissolved in water moves down through the soil,
where it is absorbed by the roots. Once absorbed, it moves up
through the tree or shrub providing year-long insect protection.
- Provides 12-month insect protection
- Provides slow release feeding
- Apply around plant, water in & walk away
- Kills aphids, borers, Japanese beetles, leafminers, mealybugs,
pine tip moth larvae, soft scales, thrips, whiteflies and more!
- BEE WISE!
||Bonide Systemic Insect Control
- Controls aphids, flower thrips, fire ants, leafminers, mealy
bugs, spider mites, tent caterpillars, whitelies and other listed
- For use on roses, flowers, ornamentals, shrubs and trees.
- Active ingredient: acephate
- Spray when insects are present or when feeding injury is first
noticed. For hard to kill insects, spray 2-3 times, waiting
7-10 days between each application.
- BEE WISE!
||All-in-One Rose & Flower Care
- Three systemic products in one providing complete rose care,
with: fertilizer, insect protection and disease control.
- 3 systemic products in one
- Fertilizer - feeds and renews
- Insect control
- Disease control
- Protects against insects and diseases for up to 6 weeks
- No spraying. Just mix in a watering can and pour at plant base
- How it works: Water moves the product down into the root zone
where it is taken up & moved into the plant. The entire plant, even
new growth, is fed and protected against insects and disease. Rain
or watering cannot wash off this long-lasting systemic protection.
- BEE WISE!
Lawn/Home Perimeter Insects...
- One Application Kills and Prevents All Season (up to 4 months
- Kills Japanese beetles, Caterpillars, Weevils, Chinchbugs, and
- Best applied June 15 - August 1st to prevent turf damage
- Active ingredient: Chlorantraniliprole
- Covers 5,000 sq. ft.
||Bayer 24- Hour Grub Killer Plus with
- Nothing kills grubs faster!
- Contains Dylox
- Kills Ants, Armyworms, Chinch Bugs, Crickets, Cutworms, Earwigs,
European Crane Flies, Grasshoppers, Leafhoppers, Millipedes, Mole
Crickets, Pillbugs, Sod Webworms, Sowbugs, White Grubs (larvae of
Chafers and Japanese Beetles)
- Water lawn after application
- Best applied from August 15th - September 15th and
watered in thoroughly. May also be applied in early to mid April to
kill resurfacing grubs, but since most of the grub damage is done in
early fall, hitting grubs in the summer months is most effective.
||Ortho Home Defense Max
- One application keeps bugs out all season!
- Invisishield technology creates a long lasting barrier around
your home foundation
- Our 2.5 lb container treats the average 2,000 sq ft home over 2
- Kills fire ants, centipedes, chiggers, fleas, spiders and ticks
- Kills and prevents ants, crickets, earwigs, grasshoppers,
millipedes, pillbugs and other lawn insects near the foundation
including chinch bugs, cutworms, leafhopper, and webworms
Frequently Asked Questions:
What is the best product to control Japanese
Beetles that are eating the leaves of my plants?
The best control for Japanese Beetles would be Eight. Just
spray the foliage of the plants (early morning or late evening) and
just wait for the beetles to disappear!
How do I kill ants and earwigs around my house
foundation and garage?
The best product for ants and earwigs is Bayer's Power Force in
easy-to-use granules. It's fast acting and the results are
Why do some insects come back after I have killed
them with spray insecticide?
Almost no insecticide will kill eggs so that hatching eggs will
re-infect the plant. That is why it is necessary to re-apply
an insecticide or miticide one week to 10 days after the initial
When it is hot and dry, I sometimes get webbing
on my plants in addition to the leaves looking mottled and dull.
What caused this?
This problem is caused by spider mites that are sucking on plant
juices. These mites, although related to their beneficial
insect eating "cousins", can be very harmful to plants even to the
point of death. Insecticides will not touch the members of the
arachnid family and must be destroyed using a miticide such as
Bayer's 3-in-1 Insect, Disease & Mite control. Use the spray
form to correct an existing problem being sure to spray under the
plant leaves where the critters like to hide. Three sprays
will be necessary 10 days apart to take care of successive egg
I have applied insecticides such as Sevin and
Malathion for years but now they do not seem to work! Why?
For insect or disease control, it is necessary to "rotate" the use
of chemicals as insects build up a resistance and will not be killed
anymore by that particular product. To prevent a resistance
build up, use the same product twice in succession and then move to
another product of a different chemical class, not just a different
trade name. For example, a product with the active ingredient
"acephate" is in products such as Orthene, Orthenex, Bonide Systemic
Insect Spray and Isotox so that the rotation of these products with
the same active ingredient is ineffective. Be sure to read the
label of active ingredients to look for an alternate as well as
using the correct product for the insect or disease to be
I have a tank pump sprayer that I use for lawn
weed killer. Is it okay to use it for insecticides and
fungicides as well?
The answer is yes and no. If you are willing to wash out the
sprayer with soap and water, and then ammonia and then rinse it, the
answer is yes. However, we would advise one sprayer labeled
for lawn weed killer and one for insecticides-fungicides as it is
difficult to get rid of 2-4D residue typically contained in lawn
weed killers. This residue sprayed on your plants will distort
the growth or even kill your valuable plants.
I spray my roses once per week with insecticide
but they seem to have deformed blooms and the plants seem somewhat
stunted. What's wrong?
Continuous weekly sprays of the same insecticide can build up the
toxic levels in the plant causing a slow down in growth. A
better scenario would be spraying every other week with an
insecticide and/or miticide and rotating products to prevent
resistance. On most plants, spraying only when trouble starts
is the best method of control.
Powdery mildew is a constant problem on some of
my plants such as lilacs and roses. What can I do?
Use Bi-Carb fungicide to prevent or even to eliminate mildew.
Bi-Carb is a salt potassium bi-carbonate and is more effective than baking soda. It was
developed by Dr. Hurst at Cornell University in New York and will
actually pierce the cell walls of the fungus cells and "dry them
I do not want chemical sprays on my herbs and
other garden plants but sometimes bugs are a problem. What can
The use of the following organic products can be used without fear
of leaving a chemical residue on the plants that you and your family
Insect Control: Neem Oil, Insecticidal Soap, Thuricide,
Disease Control: Serenade, Bi-Carb, Bordeaux
Note that dormant or horticultural oil must be used with caution as
it may burn plants if the wrong dilution rate is used.
Bordeaux while not technically organic, is an old-fashioned
fungicide that has been around since the 18th century. It
consists of copper sulfate salt and lime "mixed" with water.
It cannot be applied with a hose-end sprayer as the lime will not
dissolve in water. Be sure to use a pump sprayer for Bordeaux
and agitate it periodically to keep product in suspension while
spraying. The copper portion of Bordeaux will also correct
bacterial problems such as fireblight.
Why do my Azalea leaves look stipled, gold, clear
and even light brown?
It is most likely lacebug sucking on the leaves from the
undersides which you can see by examining the undersides of the
leaves. To clean up an existing infestation, spray with a
product containing acephate as directed and repeat in 10 days.
Re-apply the product after 6-8 weeks and again spray 10 days after.
The best time to spray for lacebug is right after bloom and again in
10 days. Then spray late July and again in 10 days. As a
preventative treatment, drench plants with Bayer's Rhododendron,
Azalea & Camelia Insect & Diseae Control about April 15, June 15 and
I'm starting to notice dieback on a few of my
plants. I believe borers are eating the inner bark of my
Dogwood and Rhododendron. Is there anything I can do to stop
it before they kill my plants?
Rhododendron borer and Dogwood borer are a larvae of a moth that eat
the cambium (live bark) of these plants. The moth lays her
eggs in the month of May in which hatching larvae crawl up the
trunks and bore holes into the trunks and lower branches to feed.
Lindane was the best control but is no longer available so
that an insecticide such as Eight sprayed the week of May 1st, May
15th and May 30th will take care of successive egg hatches.
Just spray the trunk and lower branches at the recommended rate for
I have some bag-like structures hanging from my
Arborvitaes that move and something seems to be eating the leaves.
What is wrong?
The problem is bagworm that can infest and destroy Spruce,
Arborvitae, Juniper, Honeylocust and more. The mild winters of
late have allowed it to migrate from the south to Northern Ohio.
The larvae emerge from eggs in April and May and can be observed
feeding on plants. Control is easy if you spray the
caterpillars when they are still small which would typically be in
May or June. The most environmentally friendly product is BT
or Bacillus thunbergensis sould under the trade name of Thuricide.
Two repeat sprays are advisable to kill any late egg hatches.
Small insects that can invade plant tissues
especially flowers are thrips. Thrips although usually a problem
in greenhouses where they can breed uncontrolled if not checked can
be a problem in some flowers such as gladiolus, zinnias, dahlias,
chrysanthemums and a few others. Symptoms appear as the
stippling of the flower colors and on a slow down in blooming
evidenced by deformed flowers or their failure to open. The
best control for thrips is an insect growth regulator called
spinosad. Three sprays 4-5 days apart will be necessary as
eggs hatch quickly in warm weather (above 75 degrees F) Be
sure to spray the plants to run off.
I think I might have grubs in my lawn. Is
there anything I can apply to get rid of them?
Grubs from European Chafer and Japanese Beetles can destroy a lawn
quickly if their numbers exceed 3 per square foot. Beyond this
level of 3 per square foot, healthy turf is not able to tolerate the
grubs veracious appetite for the roots. More than one life
cycle of the Japanese Beetle can be damaging as everyone has seen an
adult Japanese Beetles feeding on the foliage of certain trees and
shrubs and burying themselves into rose blossoms in order to feed.
For lawns though, the grub stage is the most damaging. Two types of
control are available in which the prevention method is to apply
Merit insecticide from mid-June through July, as directed.
Merit is manufactured by the Bayer company and is available under
the trade name of Bayer's Season Long Grub Killer. The other
method of control is to apply Dylox by periodically checking the
turf for grubs at the end of August to early September.
Evidence of grub damage will appear as spots of off-color turf and
easy-lifting of the sod where the grubs have been eating turf roots.
Applying Dylox about September in Northeast Ohio will eliminate the
rest of the grubs feeding on your lawn. Dylox is available in a
product called Bayer's 24-Hour Grub Killer. Both Merit and Dylox
need to be watered in as directed to be effective.
Why are my peppers being cut off at ground level
The problem is a cutworm that is the larval stage of a moth.
Cutworms will travel from plant to plan eating the stem just below,
or, at ground level. A simple control is to dig around the
most recently cut off plant with your finger and almost always you
will find the "worm" just below the soil surface that is trying to
keep cool. Simply squashing the caterpillars is all that is
necessary to end the problem. After June 15th, in Northern
Ohio, cutworm does not seem to be a problem as the insect pupates
into it's next stage which causes no harm.
My squash and cucumber plants seem to "bear out"
prematurely so that I don't get all the fruit I want for the summer.
Leaf hoppers are insects that hop from leaf to leaf and suck plant
juices from the undersides of the plant leaves spreading a virus
that they carry which tends to wear out plants of the curcurbit family
decline. Controlling leaf hoppers is one method of stopping
the decline of your plants. Neem-oil is an organic control
that must be applied frequently, however, dusts such as Eight would
be more effective especially it is is applied with a duster under
and over plant leaves. The residue will be there at all times
to contact these bugs and kill them before they infect your plants
with viruses. An easy "organic" method of control is to plant
curcurbits in stages so that when one group dies, another follows.
To accomplish the "staging method", just plant more seed every two
to three weeks with the last planting about July 4th in Northern
Red-orange bugs with black spots are quickly
eating my potato leaves.
The potato bug has quite an appetite and will quickly strip the
plants of foliage. The best method of control is to watch for
them about mid-June on and to simply knock the pests off with a
stick into a small can of waiting gasoline, ammonia or other toxin.
You could also try organic Neem Oil for out-of-control infestations
that cannot be controlled by the "stick & can" method.
Black and yellow colored spiders have formed
large webs in my garden. How do I get rid of them?
Please don't kill them! This common garden spider is your
helper in that it eating insects that would be eating up your
garden. Scientists estimate that food production might drop as much
as one-third without spiders. Just look at them as organic
**Disclosure: we may not stock the products exactly as
pictured. Products are not guaranteed to be in stock. We do
not ship any of the products listed.