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- Do start to uncover roses around Easter. Clean ground with rake
and remove old leaves.
- Do prune with common sense, only in spring, preferably in late
March.
- Do remove all sucker growth from bud union.
- Do prune and seal canes on outer side above eye at a 30 to 45
degree angle so borers cannot
enter the canes causing damage to bloom. Use Elmer’s glue or finger nail
polish.
- Don’t prune climbers for 2-3 years after planting. Remove dead
wood only. This makes the plant develop and established.
- Do spray with lime sulphur before leaves appear in early
spring, spray the surrounding ground too.
- Do transplant in early spring or late fall only, if possible.
- Do mulch less than two inches.
- Do apply fertilizer before a rain if possible.
- Do dead-head old blooms to make room for new flowers. Do
cut old flower stems above where you see 5 leaves.
- Do prune climbers after first bloom. (Only after they are
established, 3-4 years old)
- Do water with a watering wand and not overhead with a hose. Do
water the bottom of the bush (bud union) only, not the leaves or flowers.
- Do loosen soil around bud union occasionally for air
circulation.
- Don’t grow roses in shade. They need a minimum of four to six
hours of sun.
- Do water in the morning if possible so leaves will dry by
evening. This will cause less problems and fungus on the foliage
- Do break-up hard, clay soil with 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 existing
soil and a little agricultural sand and 1/3 compost mixture. If bad
drainage exists, raise bed six to eight inches higher.
- Do spray roses every 8-9 days for diseases with such products
as: Bi-Carb, Fungonil, Orthenex or Rubigan. These will eliminate disease
problems if the products are alternated.
- Do apply only aged manure.
- Do plant tall roses in back and shorter in front. Teas,
floribundas and miniatures should be planted 2 feet apart. If these are
large shrubs or climbers, give them more room (36-48”)
- Do water when ground is dry. In 85-90º temperatures, water as
needed so they won’t dry out.
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