Diagram
This information applies to teas, floribundas, climbers, English and
miniature roses. Shrub roses are treated as any other shrub and will not
need winter protection, special planting or disease and insect
control and are not covered in this page.
Location A well-drained sunny site (5 hours of sun or more) away from tree roots is
best. Provide well-drained soil with a high organic content.
Also provide good air circulation so leaves dry quickly to reduce chance
of disease. Avoid winter wind.
Soil Type The soil should be neither extremely light nor extremely
heavy. Either extreme may be improved by spading in liberal amounts
of peat moss, compost, or other types of humus. Spade and mix these
materials into the soil to a depth of 15-18". Soil pH should be
5.5-7.5, optimum 6.5. If soil pH is below 5, incorporate lime at a
rate of 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft. If soil is above 7.5, incorporate
sulfur at a rate of 5 pounds per 100 sq. ft.
Dig the hole much larger than the pot and mix in a small amount of
bonemeal with the soil in the hole.
Carefully remove the pot ("plantable" pots also) without
breaking the soil ball. NOTE: Bare-root roses require special handling and are
not covered in this page.
Plant roses with its crown about 1 inch below the soil level and fill in
around it gradually with soil while gently tamping soil. Again, be careful not to
break the root ball, and keep the crown uncovered. It will appear the rose is in a
funnel-shaped depression.
Space shrub, hybrid tea, grandiflora and hedge forms
2-3 feet apart, climbers 8-10 feet apart.
Finally, water the rose in well and mulch to keep down weeds, retain
moisture and keep roots cool. Peat moss is not as good as shredded bark or oak
leaves used as mulch. Also, protect plants from frost in Spring. (back to top)
Watering
Water roses only when dry. Mulched roses will seldom need water. When watering
is necessary, soak the ground thoroughly and do not repeat for a week.
Stop watering mid-September so plant hardens off.
These are undesirable shoots which originate below the graft. Tear or cut these
shoots close to the plant which will prevent more shoots from appearing.
Fertilizing
& Insect Control A fertilizer such as 2-Way Rose
Care can be applied as directed in early spring once roses have leafed out. Water or work the fertilizer into the
soil. The 2-Way does 2 things, it will prevent most insects form getting started and it
fertilizes the plants all at the same time! Remember though, the systemic insecticide will
not do any good for disease problems such as Black Spot and Powdery Mildew. A severe
existing problem with insects may be cleaned up with an application of Cygon twice, 10
days apart. With Cygon, insects and most spider mites will be killed. However, applying
the 2-Way Rose Care early in the season or at planting time will prevent problems. Also,
cut-off ends of rose canes should be coated with Elmer’s glue to prevent borers. This
is especially important for tree roses. DO NOT fertilize after
August 1st to allow plant to harden off before winter.
Systemic Rose Care
Use Bayer's 2-in-1 Systemic Rose Careto feed and protect from
insects for up to 6 weeks while
Bi-Carb and Fungonilalternated weekly will keep powdery mildew and black spot under control.
Neem Oil, although it is used as an insecticide, has properties that
suppress black spot and other diseases of roses.
Disease Control
The two main disease enemies of
roses are black spot and powdery mildew. While not a severe problem with shrub roses or
climbers, these two diseases are a plague especially to hybrid teas, grandifloras and
floribundas which will cause the rose to lose lots of foliage and shut down blooming.
Therefore, these diseases must be prevented. In early spring just before new growth
starts, an application of lime-sulpfur spray to the rose and surrounding ground will kill
black spot spores waiting to attack your roses. In
addition, weekly alternating sprays of Bi-Carb and Fungonil used as directed will eliminate
most black spot and mildew problems. Remember, while these two fungicides have some
curative powers, prevention is the key.
In fall, cover the crowns with a mound of soil, mulch or
leaves at about 8" to 10" high. Fall pruning is not
recommended but the plants should only be
pruned enough to prevent wind whipping.
In March, prune roses to the highest live bud. If the cut looks
brown or tan, continue cutting until the stem is whitish. Remove all
canes smaller in diameter than a pencil and all dead wood from Hybrid Teas.
Also remember to remove old flower buds and stalks to the nearest new bud
pointing away from the center of the plant to keep Hybrid Teas and
Floribundas blooming. Floribundas are pruned only to remove dead or
old wood or to keep the plants low.
In early spring just before new growth
starts, an application of lime-sulpfur spray to the rose and surrounding ground will kill
black spot spores waiting to attack your roses. In
addition, weekly alternating sprays of Bi-Carb and Fungonil used as directed will eliminate
most black spot and mildew problems. Remember, while these two fungicides have some
curative powers, prevention is the key.
During the first 2 seasons, allow the plant's basic framework to
develop, pruning only the small spindly shoots. In the 3rd season,
treat as you would any hedge, shearing off the top 3rd of the plant,
leaving the rest to grow. Prune smaller shrubs back by one-half and
larger shrubs by one-third. A trimming of shrub roses after the June
bloom will encourage more growth and thus more flowers all summer.
Tree roses should have their roots cut on
one side with a spade. Then pull the plant over into a trench and bury the entire
plant with one foot of soil. Tree roses may also be grown in a pot all summer on the
patio. Around December 1, move the rose into an unheated attached garage and water
at least twice a month in winter, even if the soil ball is frozen. A tan colored or
white garbage bag pulled over the top grafts of a tree rose will seal in moisture and keep
tree roses healthy. It is a good idea to spray the top with
Fungonil just before covering. Remove bag around March 15. Prune
back by about half. This will encourage new growth and maintain the
compact rounded form. Seal cut ends with Elmer's glue to prevent borers and
gradually move the plant in to the sun.
Climbers usually bloom best on 2-year-old wood, so prune
very lightly. Remove only twiggy growth and damaged or non-productive
stems. Reinvigorate growth ever 2-3 years by removing old, woody canes
at their base in favor of the younger, more vigorous and flexible, green
canes. These can be trained to grow on arbors, trellises, fences or
pillars.
Cover the base of your climbers with soil. Tie the canes and wrap
them in burlap. Anchor the canes to the ground and cover them with
straw. (See Diagram)
3459 Cleveland-Massillon Rd. Norton, Ohio 44203 Just 1/4 mile North of I-76 in the historic Loyal Oak area of
Norton, Ohio 330-825-3320 or 1-866-500-6605
info@daytonnursery.com contact: Amy Calhoun,
Webmaster
